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This is one of my all time best sellers. I tend to create one-off pieces but everyone loves this necklace, and I adore the raw garnet. Having sold one recently, I’m remaking it and thought I’d show off some of the process. The stones always vary so I create it from the center out to make the sizing easy. Once the chain is complete I’ll oxidize it and polish it to shine and strengthen the rings.

The weave is double serpent chain mail - it makes a gorgeous thick rope of silver, perfect for showing off a stunning stone.

See the finished piece here.

As every wise shopper knows, it’s important to branch out and try competing brands occasionally. Even though most weeks at the grocery store you mindlessly throw the tried and true products into the cart, it’s a good idea to look around every now and then. Maybe your favorite pasta brand has been sneaking their prices up without you noticing. Maybe there’s a new brand that’s cheaper and of comparable quality. Maybe there’s a slightly more expensive brand that’s worth the extra money.

We’re all familiar with this idea, and it rings especially true for business owners. I could keep on buying the same jump rings and beads from the same suppliers, but with hundreds upon hundreds of options available to me, it’s important to check out competing vendors regularly.

This was one such attempt. I’ve been buying my rings from the same source for about three years; their quality is exceptional and their packaging is actually useful even when the jump rings are finished. However, their prices are relatively high and, as a good consumer, I felt it was time to give one of their competitors a chance to impress me.

I tried a source that chain mailers tend to rave about – their prices are much lower and they have a much wider choice of rings. It took three weeks to get my delivery, they are not polished enough, and many of the rings are scratched or nicked to the point where I’m throwing them straight in the recycling jar. They’re also slightly different sizes from my standard supply. I realize that no two ring makers will make identical rings due to variations in metal, tension of the coil and so on, but it does mean I can’t mix the two into single projects and the sizing of my weaves is going to be slightly different. I also had tremendous trouble getting them delivered by UPS, since it was an imported order, which is, of course, no fault of the vendor’s, but it did make the experience less appealing.

The rings are fine, but not the quality that I have come to expect. I’m sure a few hours in the tumbler will help some of the problems, but I can’t help but think I should have just spent the extra on my regular vendor.

Now, this isn’t just a rant about the search for the ultimate jump ring – the experience got me thinking about the value that raw materials add to a product.

And yes, I have tried making my own rings. I have a flex shaft saw and all the gear. My rings are scratchy and irregular. I’m sure that lots of practice would change that, but I want to spend my time getting creative, not cutting rings. A company with years of experience in cutting rings, and who can produce them in huge quantities wins in my book every time.

Spending that little bit extra on my materials provides me with the following benefits:

  • I get the order within a week and don’t need to mess around with delivery companies.
  • They come in cute tins that I use to store odd beads or unfinished projects - beats another plastic bag that will end up in the trash.
  • The company is run by truly nice people who love to share their creative and business experience with their shoppers – they make me feel good about supporting a small company with real people, rather than a faceless one that feels like it was built for and by engineers.
  • In three years I think I’ve found one bad ring – and when they’re priced by weight that really matters.
  • They’re perfectly consistent every time, so I don’t waste time filtering out mismatched or marred rings.
  • They’re polished, labeled and ready for me to get to work.

That’s all very well, but what do you get out of that? Here are some benefits that my supplier choices create for you:

  • Most simply, it adds to the quality of the jewelry.
  • No nicks or burs mean your jewelry is never scratchy or irritating to wear.
  • Perfect rings mean consistency across the whole line of jewelry.
  • You should feel good about supporting a small business, who in turn supports small businesses.
  • Every aspect of the jewelry is handmade – right down to the rings which are hand coiled and cut by my supplier.
  • The cost of the finished piece of jewelry is actually lowered by choosing exceptional vendors – I don’t have to pay myself the time to cut rings or pick out the bad ones from a less-than-perfect supplier.
  • My vendors price things according to market value so there’s little extra mark-up or buffering on prices – that means I can keep my costs and prices down.
  • I try to select companies with strong environmental commitments who suit my own high standards.
  • If you’re within the United States and concerned about the economy, you should know that shopping at Elena Adams Designs supports a whole string of home-grown companies – from the business itself to the jump rings and findings.

Are you willing to pay more for better quality? If you’re a jewelry maker, what affects your decisions when you select a vendor? If you’re a jewelry shopper does knowing where the supplies come from affect your experience?

Now get shopping!

A Mini-Vacation

This weekend I’ll be taking a much-needed, mini vacation while my husband and I dog/house sit for one of his coworkers. It’s a nice house, with a fantastic backyard and an incredible-looking hammock. We’re not planning to take our computers down (although we’ll probably take a laptop), so it will be a real mental break.

I usually don’t take my tools and jewelry gear when I go on vacation, since I either end up doing repairs for friends or get too stuck into a project to enjoy the surroundings. However, since we’re just heading deeper into Bay Area suburbia and there will be no sight-seeing, just lots and lots of quiet time. With any luck my jump ring order will arrive this afternoon and I’ll be able to spend the weekend lying in the sun and making chain.

I can’t wait!

Orders will start shipping again Thursday June 25th.

DIY Accessories

One of the great things about making your own jewelry is that a gap in the wardrobe can quickly be filled. If I really want the perfect necklace to go with a new shirt I don’t have to spend hours searching for it in boutiques and online - I make it!

I often get inspiration in this way, but the downside is that I usually get it right before I have to leave the house. There’s a scramble of silver and beads as I desperately try to throw together the accessory I think I can’t do without. I end up making myself late, and I still can’t finish the jewelry in time. But next time I’ll have the perfect piece!

This bracelet started as a proposed custom design to match these gem-framed earrings, but the client settled on something else instead. Not one to waste a great design, I’m finishing up the bracelet this afternoon, and I’ll add it online soon.

I always find myself attracted to blue stones and iolite is one of my favorites. This is a design I came up with for The Bead Shop. It’s a mix of stringing and chain maille techniques, which I love, because it means I can inject chain maille into every project. They make great components!

Well, they took me a full day, and I know they have a long way to go in the quality, but I present to you my first chain maille video tutorials. I’ll be working on some more soon, and once I get all the technical bits figured out I’ll start adding some more complicated weaves and go further into designing.

First off and introduction to opening and closing jump rings:

And making a basic charm bracelet. Enjoy! I’d love to hear what you think of them.

When it comes to companies using Twitter, the whole thing comes down to accessibility. People follow big brands and celebrities in the hope of getting a little closer to the real people - an inside look without the glossy facade that usually blocks the way. It’s part of the reason that the service has been so successful.

Smaller brands and bloggers on Twitter follow the same logic. If they make themselves accessible and interesting on a scale that regular consumers can relate to, they build their identity and gain credibility. Every set of 140 characters goes toward creating an open dialog with customers and potential customers. If you can make yourself an authority in your field you’re one step closer to fame and fortune.

And then there’s the advertising. I realize that the Twitter creators haven’t yet figure out how to make money on their venture, but plenty of individuals are taking advantage of the new media buffet. Offering thousands of new followers and monetary compensation through pay per click schemes, they add a level of noise to the feeds that was pleasantly lacking. In the quest for fame and a little cash, many bloggers and small brands have fallen for the spiel, allowing advertising to appear in their post streams.

Naturally the point of all these brands being on Twitter is so that they can advertise their product or work, so really we’re all advertising. Why then is Twitter advertising from third part companies more of problem? Every post you make about a brand other than your own is, in a way, a personal endorsment for that product or idea. When you say you tried a great restaurant in San Francisco, or found a new source of jewelry supplies, your followers take interest because you are a credible source of information to them. However, when we start seeing ads for gaining new follows or losing weight you damage that credibility. If you’re willing to endorse those ads, what does your endorsement in your own posts count for?

I know the plight of the starving artist; I’d love it if someone handed me a pile of new followers and a little money to help out with the rent, but unless I’m putting in the hard work myself there’s no point hoping for success.

What’s your experience with these offers? Am I more bothered by it than I should be? How does paid advertising from those you follow affect your opinion of their brand?

Today I’m trying to finish up this chain maille bracelet. I wanted to make a thick band of European maille, and I bought this super sweet butterfly clasp last year and thought the width would work perfectly. The length of the bracelet is now done, but the silver on its own doesn’t look quite as interesting as I’d hoped, particularly since I’m using thinner jump rings than I normally would in this weave. Now I’m trying to work some gold-filled rings into the design. In the above image, I’m trying some larger 18g rings, but now I’m going to add smaller ones and see what that looks like.

Many designer plan their jewelry from the top down. They come up with the full design and then execute it. Unfortunately, I can’t think like that and my designs grow a little more organically for the most part. For this bracelet I just started making chain, then decided it was a bracelet, then picked out the clasp, and so on. If I’d thought of the gold rings from the start it would have saved me a lot of time if I could have woven them in as I went from the start, but I’m looking forward to the results. On the plus side, I like to think that I’ll be pleasantly surprised once each design is completed.

How To Wear Slave Earrings

Slave earrings are one of my favorite pieces of jewelry to wear and design, but just how are they worn?

Slave earrings are sold as a pair - one stud or regular-looking earring, and a similar earring with a slave cuff or post.

The long piece attaches at the top of the ear as pictured. Start by putting on the bottom studs, just as you would regular earrings. Next, grab the long strand and clip it to the top of your ear.

If you have a second stud at the top of your ear you can order your slave earrings with a second stud instead of the cuff.

Most slave earrings are designed to be worn on either ear, but some are designed for one or the other - be sure to check the descriptions, and if you have a preference, email me with your order to have the design adjusted for your needs.

See the complete range of slave earrings here.

Spoiling the Sister

I completely spoiled my sister for her birthday last weekend.

I wanted to make her something that she could keep forever. This necklace is sapphire with white gold beads and a white gold box clasp, knotted on silk. It took me roughly 10 hours, mostly because I got three inches from the end and the silk broke in a way that I couldn’t repair. The second time through was much smoother, and results were pretty fantastic. These sapphires sparkle beautifully and knotting them made them silky and luscious.

She’s also having a love-affair with pocket watches. I can’t image carrying one around, but I love mechanical and watch bits, so I sent her one where the gears are visible. This one is by Charles Hubert - I love his designs.

Earrings come in all lengths, shapes and sizes. A big trend in the 80’s that resurfaced during the 90’s was wearing “shoulder dusters” that hung so far pass the shoulder, the wearer was at risk of losing an ear to a passing bus. Thankfully that look has subsided for now and earrings are back to a manageable length.

What length is right for you? We all have different neck lengths, so there’s no set answer to that. Take a ruler or tape measure and measure from the bottom of your earlobe to the top of your shoulder. This is your maximum allowable earring length - don’t buy earrings longer than that, but just about anything in between is just fine.

A few tips for selecting a look that’s perfect for you:

  • The ideal length for every day earrings are half the length of your maximum allowable earring length and shorter.
  • Longer earrings can elongate the neck and look good on most people, but it’s a much more dramatic look so save it for events or a fantastic outfit.
  • Short earrings look great on everyone, but bulky earrings on a short neck give the illusion that you’re even shorter! Stick to delicate designs.
  • Earrings should never get lost in your collar. You should allow approximately a half to one inch above the highest point of your shirt. That way, even if you slouch through the day, your earrings will still be visible.

Nearly all earrings at Elena Adams Designs can be customized to suit your look. Love the design but they’re too long for you? Contact me about having the shortened for your order.

Start shopping.

Get Artistic for Charity

Depression, ADD, autism and schizophrenia affect so many people, that nearly everyone has a tale of how mental disease has affected their friends or family. NARSAD believes that a world without mental illness can be a reality. Through the help of thousands of donors, they provide grants and assistance to researchers who are pioneering breakthrough in the way the brain works, and leading drug and rehablitation improvements.

Get involved and raise awareness by becoming part of this unique collaborative competition. Whatever your means of expression, submit your work and inspire a piece of jewelry to be auctioned. Proceeds will go to NARSAD and the winner of the collaboration will be featured here.

Get more details here.

Sometimes a jewelry design can take as much as a month or two to get right - whether it’s a piece that doesn’t look quite right, or a technical issue that needs solving. This chain maille bracelet had a bit of both.

I’d been thinking about making something new with Full Persian weave for a while. I’ve been exploring new knots, but still can’t settle on anything I like as much as the simple square knot. I decided to try wrapping a section of the chain around a stone like a setting, since it forms a beautiful coil. I started pulling beads to lay in the space and finally settled on these azurite coins. The color is just amazing! They remind me of Tahitian waters and summer vacations (is it obvious I’m craving a little sunlight?).

One of the hardest things to do in chain maille is to join two ends of a piece of chain. Some weaves are relatively easy to patch, while others are more difficult than a rubik’s cube. Full Persian is one of the latter, and the idea of having to size it correctly to fit a bead at the same time just looked impossible. At this stage I still had no idea what I would end up making: a pendant, a bracelet, or huge earrings. I looked at a number of ways to join the chain around the stone, but was unsatisfied with the results since there was no way to make a perfectly round shape around the stone. After some time, I found that I liked the look of two stones and the chain could be wound around both in a way that made the joints far less offensive.

Getting the stones in place was one of the more fiddly projects I’ve taken on in a while. To get the wire wraps nestled close to the chain I had to pre-wrap the stones then carefully open jump rings to feed the loops onto while getting the tension in the chain correct. Once the basic shape was in place I used tiny jump rings to secure the ends of chain, completing the full figure-of-eight.

For about two weeks the knot just sat on my desk. I’d pick it up now and then and see if any inspiration came. I had decided a bracelet was probably going to work the best since there was no way I was going to make a second one with the time it took, but I couldn’t quite envision the rest of the piece. Eventually I tried wrapping a double strand of small azurite beads to each side of the knot, finishing with another small length of Persian chain.

Thinking I was done, I photographed the bracelet and started building its product page. By the time I was ready to launch it, I was completely over the look. The beads just weren’t right, and they felt flimsy against the heavy central design of the bracelet. Back on my desk the bracelet went for another week or so.

I finally realized that a full stretch of chain was going to do the trick - it wouldn’t distract from the large azurite beads but would help carry the look. I photographed it again and launched the product.

Last week, I wore the bracelet to an event at a photographer’s studio, and found that the beads had a nasty habit of flipping up within the chain. Since the Persian chain maille wasn’t rigid, there was no real framework for the beads to settle into. I was also concerned that the excessive rubbing of the metal against the azurite would make them oxidize quickly and lead to early breaking.

Back to the drawing board! I tried running wire across the back of the beads to give them something more solid to rest on, but it looked too homemade (or “organic” as Iris Sandkuhler would say). After a lot of fussing, I found that I could push 24 guage wire through the chain in a way that held the shape, but wasn’t visible without very close inspection. The beads can still turn, but the frame maintains its shape, which stops the wearing on the beads, and the bracelet finally matches what I had in my head!

Now the bracelet is one of my favorites - it’s a love/hate relationship after such a long design process, but it’s now available as part of my Signature Collection. See the Blue Seas Knot: Sterling Silver Persian Chain Maille Bracelet here.

This is one of my all time favorite necklaces. The simple pairing of silver and black creates such a visual impact, and when the rainbow obsidian catches the light it sparkles with purples and greens.  This necklace is intended to be worn with the shortest strand pulled tight to the throat, with the longest strand reaching about 19″.

When it comes to this necklace, think old-world charm and high-contrast glamor. Keep necklines symmetric and low-cut to avoid distraction and other accessories to a minimum. If you must wear more jewelry, simple studs, a plain silver anklet or bracelet are the way to go.

I love this necklace for big occasions - ballgowns and cocktail dresses with skyscraper heels! Darker colors will help show it off but a black and white combination will echo the contrasted design. Dial it down for smaller events with shirts in soft, dark fabrics paired with jeans and black heels.

I only have one or two of these necklace left. You can see more details here.

Sterling Silver Triple Tiered Necklace

Sterling silver and 14k gold-gilled earrings can be polished back to a full shine.

If you’re something of a beach bunny like me, you’re going to be spending as much time as possible covered in sand and salt water in the coming months. Even if you’re just taking a sunny vacation to your favorite beach spot, looking fabulous is half the fun. A new bikini, a glamorous hat, and…earrings!

Sea air and water aren’t the best for earrings: silver tarnishes quickly, gemstones weaken, and there’s always the risk of losing one in a sand bank.

If you must wear earrings make sure they’re posts or lever-backs to prevent them falling out in a wave. Stick to plain silver, or the hardest of gems like diamonds, sapphires or topaz. Softer gemstones can weaken and crack, and stay away from anything dyed, as the water can break down the dyes.

Base metals and plated metals like vermeil will lose their plating quickly and fine joints may break, so stick to your cheapest pairs. Fine silver won’t tarnish, even in the sea, so wear it where possible. If you’re going with sterling silver or 14k gold-filled earrings, be sure to rinse it at the end of the day, wipe dry with a soft cloth and store them in plastic zip lock bags when you’re not wearing them to prevent further tarnish.

The best thing about wearing real silver is that if your earrings look tarnished at the end of the season, you can take them to your jeweler to have the polished back to their former shine!

A Write-Off of a Week

Well, this cold really knocked me over. I’ve spent two days just lying on the couch feeling sorry for myself. I should probably be doing the same today, but I’m getting pretty bored. I’d love to get the new pieces up online, but the idea of standing up for more than a minute or two is still in the realm of fantasy.

Hopefully, today I’ll be well enough to at least start making some new pieces that I can put online as soon as I’m up and running again.

Today I’m working on a chain maille necklace with blue tiger’s eye. Blue tiger’s eye looks black, but when it catches the light, it flashes swirls of iridescent blue. I love the look of silver and black, and I’m really enjoying this piece. I haven’t decided on a finished length yet. I’ll post more on the design process once it’s online. For now, back to the pliers!

Welcome to Part 3. In this final installment, let’s look at going back to basics and dumping the guilt.

You can read Part 1 here and Part 2 here.

Get a new hobby
If you run a business that was once your hobby, you’ll quickly find that it doesn’t relax you in the same way it used to. I think about jewelry constantly, so it’s hardly a break when I pick up my tools. Find something else you enjoy, whether it’s a new craft, a new exercise, or even just reading. For me, photography is the new hobby. Sure, I photograph during the work day to add new product online, but when I’m in hobby mode, I get out of the house and go somewhere. Even if I just walk around the block taking pictures of flowers, it does the job. Without an outlet, there’s a big risk that you’ll come to despise what you originally loved. Once you’re running a full-fledged business it’s not realistic to believe that you’ll obtain the same pleasure from it that you once did, but by having a new hobby you don’t feel so tied to it.

A new hobby also means when it’s time to take a break or a vacation, you have something to do! Unless I’m going somewhere that I think I’ll make good on-the-spot sales or orders, I don’t take my tools and beads. If I do, I end up spending the entire time repairing my friends’ jewelry for free, or launching into a project that means I don’t relax and just enjoy myself.

Remember why you started your business: You’re doing what you love
When I say I run a home jewelry business, you’d be surprised how many people assume that means I get to “sit around and make jewelry”. “What a fun business”, they exclaim. What people forget is that as soon as an income is linked to the task it becomes Work. We pick up hobbies like jewelry because they are relaxing and a great creative outlet, but like anything else it loses its gleam once you feel the need to produce. It’s like the difference between loving to garden and becoming a gardener. The task is still wonderful, but it’s not the same as doing it when you feel like it. I love designing and creating jewelry, but I feel the burn-out sometimes as much as anyone.

When I start feeling like that, I take a day off, and then remind myself of why I’m doing this:

  • I love making jewelry
  • I love the idea of being hugely successful one day through my own hard work
  • I can spend more time with my family, and set flexible schedules
  • I get to be my own boss
  • I can set my own goals
  • I can watch television while I work…okay, maybe that one’s not so important.

Finally, Create a Guiltless Work Environment
The biggest moral suck for home workers is the guilt. When you skip work, or stay up late, or don’t feel like you’re getting anywhere, there’s a huge sense of guilt. The flip-side of being responsible for your own success is that you are also responsible when you don’t succeed. That’s a terrible cycle to get stuck in. I often feel guilty about what I could be accomplishing if I just focused a little better, or tried a little harder, but the panic that comes from that usually results in a working binge for a day followed by a week of burn-out. If you can learn to let go of that, the ride is going to be much smoother. As I said in the last post, there’s always more to do, so set some real goals and priorities and use the tips I laid out and start trying to ditch the guilt!

Thank you so much for reading! I hope I’ve provided some new tips. I’d love to hear how you handle working from home, whatever business your in.

These earrings very nearly got the better of me, but they were totally worth it. I bought a stack of hoop earrings at the gem show at the start of the month with absolutely no idea what to do with them (impulse shopping is a big problem when everything is so shiny!). I first thought I’d make similar earrings to these amethyst hoops, but I wanted to try something a little different.

I decided I’d try wrapping chain to the inside of the hoops, so started coiling wire around the edges. The damn stuff wouldn’t hold still; slipping around the edges of the hoops freely. I considered just wrapping the full length in wire, and hooking the chain in where it was needed, but I love the look of the simple silver and felt a full wrap would distract from the intended finish.

After a few attempts with lots of frustration and muttering, I tried making marks in the hoops to create some friction for the wire. Still no luck! Finally, I filed down the silver and punched holes with the tip of a wire cutter. Now I could hook the end of a piece of wire in to anchor it there!

Once the chain was in place I started looking for beads to add. I tried apatite first, which I still think would have looked gorgeous, but the briolettes were too long and ran into the next layer of chain. After digging around for a while…ruby! A few wrap, cuts and re-wraps, and the spacing looked perfect. With one earring done, I went on to painstakingly match up the second earring. I always tell my chain maille students that counting is completely overrated. If you can’t eyeball it, it’s not worth doing. These earrings made me eat those words, as even 1-2 links of chain difference had a significant impact in the layout.

And now they’re complete, and I’m simply in love! They’re so light, you’ll hardly notice them, and large enough for a incredible impact.

See the Sterling Silver and Ruby Earrings here.

Welcome to Part 2 of the series in working from home. This time I’ll talk about taking vacations, and managing your day.

Take vacations.
Even a stay-at home vacation can work if you plan ahead and take it seriously. First you have to recognize that you need to take the occasional vacation. You’ll be far more productive afterward and any resentment you’ve bottled up about the job has a wonderful way of dissipating.

If you’ll be staying at home here are some things you can do to ensure some privacy:

  • Make sure your clients know you will be closed
  • Change your phone message at least a week ahead saying when you will be unavailable. Once you’re in official vacation-mode update the message to say when you’ll be “back”
  • Add a line to your email signatures and website letting people know of the closure
  • Identify clients or projects that are likely to become a problem while you’re checked out, and try to deal with them ahead of time, or at least be sure clients understand when you can resume your work with them. That way you won’t be worried during your vacation time, and won’t feel the temptation to do “just a little bit of work”.
  • Once you’re free, don’t answer the phone under any circumstances. Remember that what you do is not a matter of life and death and know that as long as everyone has been informed of the closure, you have a right to make them wait a little.
  • Resist the urge to work. Turn off your computer or even have your spouse put a password on your business files so you can’t cheat.
  • If you do get trapped into working, don’t feel guilty. Do the job then get back to some top-quality relaxation as soon as possible.

Take lunch breaks
Obviously you don’t need to take an hour when you don’t want to, but a short brain-break can be totally revitalizing. Go for a walk, read a book, or even do the dishes; anything that doesn’t fall into your self-made job description.

Teach your friends about your schedule
A friend of mine worked from home for years as an hourly employee. One of the biggest problems she found was making her friends understand that she wasn’t at their beck and call. Well-meaning people assume that if you’re home you’re free, and surely you could just make up the work at some other time. Since she was paid by the hour, if a friend compromised her time she ended up working late into the night and over the weekend to make up the lost hours.

Even if you’re not on an hourly schedule, most of us feel that built in responsibility to fulfill a certain number of hours over the course of the week. Being able to set a schedule and stick to it will help create a sharper divide between work and play, and make it easier to get the most out of leisure time. If you’ve lost half the day because someone called to chat, chances are you’ll push well into the evening because you feel guilty about the lost time. Sure, the hours might balance out, but it’s not a healthy way to function.

More to follow.

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