Sometimes a jewelry design can take as much as a month or two to get right - whether it’s a piece that doesn’t look quite right, or a technical issue that needs solving. This chain maille bracelet had a bit of both.
I’d been thinking about making something new with Full Persian weave for a while. I’ve been exploring new knots, but still can’t settle on anything I like as much as the simple square knot. I decided to try wrapping a section of the chain around a stone like a setting, since it forms a beautiful coil. I started pulling beads to lay in the space and finally settled on these azurite coins. The color is just amazing! They remind me of Tahitian waters and summer vacations (is it obvious I’m craving a little sunlight?).
One of the hardest things to do in chain maille is to join two ends of a piece of chain. Some weaves are relatively easy to patch, while others are more difficult than a rubik’s cube. Full Persian is one of the latter, and the idea of having to size it correctly to fit a bead at the same time just looked impossible. At this stage I still had no idea what I would end up making: a pendant, a bracelet, or huge earrings. I looked at a number of ways to join the chain around the stone, but was unsatisfied with the results since there was no way to make a perfectly round shape around the stone. After some time, I found that I liked the look of two stones and the chain could be wound around both in a way that made the joints far less offensive.
Getting the stones in place was one of the more fiddly projects I’ve taken on in a while. To get the wire wraps nestled close to the chain I had to pre-wrap the stones then carefully open jump rings to feed the loops onto while getting the tension in the chain correct. Once the basic shape was in place I used tiny jump rings to secure the ends of chain, completing the full figure-of-eight.
For about two weeks the knot just sat on my desk. I’d pick it up now and then and see if any inspiration came. I had decided a bracelet was probably going to work the best since there was no way I was going to make a second one with the time it took, but I couldn’t quite envision the rest of the piece. Eventually I tried wrapping a double strand of small azurite beads to each side of the knot, finishing with another small length of Persian chain.
Thinking I was done, I photographed the bracelet and started building its product page. By the time I was ready to launch it, I was completely over the look. The beads just weren’t right, and they felt flimsy against the heavy central design of the bracelet. Back on my desk the bracelet went for another week or so.
I finally realized that a full stretch of chain was going to do the trick - it wouldn’t distract from the large azurite beads but would help carry the look. I photographed it again and launched the product.
Last week, I wore the bracelet to an event at a photographer’s studio, and found that the beads had a nasty habit of flipping up within the chain. Since the Persian chain maille wasn’t rigid, there was no real framework for the beads to settle into. I was also concerned that the excessive rubbing of the metal against the azurite would make them oxidize quickly and lead to early breaking.
Back to the drawing board! I tried running wire across the back of the beads to give them something more solid to rest on, but it looked too homemade (or “organic” as Iris Sandkuhler would say). After a lot of fussing, I found that I could push 24 guage wire through the chain in a way that held the shape, but wasn’t visible without very close inspection. The beads can still turn, but the frame maintains its shape, which stops the wearing on the beads, and the bracelet finally matches what I had in my head!
Now the bracelet is one of my favorites - it’s a love/hate relationship after such a long design process, but it’s now available as part of my Signature Collection. See the Blue Seas Knot: Sterling Silver Persian Chain Maille Bracelet here.
Tags: bracelets, chain maille, chainmail, designing jewelry, jewelry, jewelry website, lindstrom pliers, making jewelry